Some Things You Need To Know
Are you ready to begin enjoying your new Inground Spa from Pool Warehouse? Now that you are ready for your spa installation, there are a few things to keep in mind. Before you begin any digging, call your local utility company to mark any gas, power, and/or water lines. This will ensure your safety and save you the headache of busting utility lines. Please note that the maximum distance between your new spa and the spa’s equipment is between 20 and 25 feet. The controller is air powered and comes standard with 25 feet of tubing. The biggest decision you will make during you spa installation is where to put your new spa. When selecting your spas location, keep into consideration how much grading will have to be done prior to the actual digging. Level areas are obviously best, as they will not require as much preparation. Also, the site you select should be slightly higher than the surrounding are to allow for safe drainage and prevent backfill. When faced with a slopped area, you may need to build a retaining wall(s) to create a level area for the spa installation. If the slope is minor, the call can be built with just a few landscape timbers, railroad ties, etc. however, if the slope is severe you may need to construct a major load bearing wall.
Excavation (Hard Bottom)
Because all spa shells from Pool Warehouse are self-supporting, we recommend installing your spa on a hard foundation. The bottom should have a smooth, flat surface at least four inches thick and as large as the spa’s bottom contact points. It is very important not to seal the bottom. There needs to be a way for the water under the spa to escape. We suggest putting gravel around the concrete base. This will help you with standing water.
Excavation (Sand Bottom)
When having a sand foundation, the excavation should be two to four inches deeper than the spa to allow for the bed of sand. The sand is used to level the spa and provide a support base with no voids when the spa installation is complete. Your excavation should be one foot longer and wider that the actual diminutions of the spa. This will allow for six inches of over-dig along each wall of your spa once it is in place.
After assuring (with the utility company) that there are no utility lines in your dig path and checking your local code for placing pipes underground, it is time to dig the trench. The trench should be deep and wide enough to allow all pipes to be buried securely underground under the frost line. This will prevent freezing problems in the future. The trench should be dug as straight as possible from the spa to the equipment.
When plumbing for your spa installation, you will need two inch Flex or PVC line for your suction, intake, and airline. Every spa from Pool Warehouse comes with the intake and suction lines marked for easy installation. It is recommended that you do not use any sch 40 PVC 45 and 90 degree elbows in you plumbing because using these may reduce the GPM (gallons per minute). Instead use two inch Flex or PVC. This will ensure easy installation and maximum water flow. And when installing your piping, please be cautious and do not let dirt or other debris inside the pipes.
Pool Warehouse highly recommends hiring a licensed professional electrician to handle all the electrical steps involved with your spa installation. The equipment pack has a detailed installation manual to be used.
Preparing the Excavated Area for the Spa Shell
Before your spa installation, you must prepare the excavated area. Sand or rock dust must be used as bedding and backfill. Under no circumstances can dirt be used. In order to know how much sand (or rock dust) you need is to place a grade stake in all four corners and on one on each side of the center line in the bottom of the hole. Fill the area until it is two to four inches deep. Make sure the area is clean of any debris then ensure the finish is level and smooth.
Testing the Connections
It is recommended that all electrical connection be complete before pouring any concrete for your spa installation. Before proceeding with your concrete, ensure all electrical inspections have been completed and checked off by your local inspector. At this point it is suggested that you run the spa for 24 hours before you pour the concrete. This will ensure that there are no leaks or electrical issues. If there are any issues, you can fix them now before they become extremely difficult.
Pouring the deck
Pouring your deck is a very important part of your spa installation. When pouring the deck, it is recommended that you dig an area around the spa the exposes the flange of the coping and just underneath it. This is important because the concrete should be packed under and over the flange as the deck is poured. This will lock the spa to the concrete which will provide a much stronger bond. This will eliminate cracking where the deck meets the spa. If you are pouring a regular deck up to the spa’s coping, the top of the coping should be four inches above the surrounding area.
Once be begin setting your outside forms, it is important to remember that you want the water to drain away from the spa. You do not want rain to run off the deck not into the spa. To avoid overfill, plan for a slope of ¼ inch per foot away from the spa. If you are joining your new deck into an existing deck, it is suggested that you install some type of draining system to handle the runoff. In addition, an experienced concrete finisher should always be used when pouring the decks.
If you have spa installation questions at any time please feel free to give us a call at 1-800-515-1747 or send us an email, email@example.com.
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